Over the New Year's break my friends Steve, James and I decided to go for an eight day hike. We planned to start at the Munyang Power Station near Guthega and finish at Thredbo. Well, plans changed as they do sometimes, so we finished at Munyang. There are often no set plans with bushwalking as anything can happen along the way, and you have to be flexible and just go with it.

Looking down to Straight Creek near Smiths Lookout between Jagungal and Grey Mare Hut, day 5Unless otherwise stated, all pictures by Sonya Muhlsimmer

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Kosciuszko National Park is a very special place for me. Nearly every year of my life I have spent some time in this park. It has been a big part of my life, and I have lost count of the times that I have walked to the top of Mount Kosciuszko. It seems it is getting busier up there on that summit every time I go … Forty years ago my Dad built a row of townhouses in Jindabyne, and kept one for our family as a holiday house. So every, I mean nearly every summer and winter, and any other time in the year we could go, we would be down in Jindabyne either bushwalking or skiing, or just relaxing by the lake or even learning how to water ski. I believe this is where my love of bushwalking came from. For the last 10 years or so since the townhouse was sold, nearly every winter I have been going back-country skiing, spending about a week in the snow. It is a very special place for me indeed.

To Gungartan and MawsonsThe first day we walked up Disappointment Spur, but not by the usual route by the road. Disappointment Spur is hard at any time as it is so steep, but the way we went was so much harder. As the bridge was still closed our first challenge was to cross the Munyang River, which we did near the broken bridge just above the power station. Fortunately, the river was low enough to do this safely. Alternatively, we could have followed Schlink Pass Trail until we crossed the river on a bridge and were able to access the spur. First challenge accomplished, and then the next challenge was to get to the ridge. Just under a kilometre along the fire trail we went north-east, off the track and up the steep slope of Disappointment Spur. It was a "short cut" through thick scrub that was over my head and it was tough. It was not so much a short cut to save time; it was to get to the ridge quicker but it was not a quick journey at all. With a heavy pack for eight days and probably not as fit as I should have been, I struggled a lot going through the scrub. It took its toll, but I kept going, very slowly. A year before this I hiked in Tassie's Western Arthur Ranges and that was tough too but the thick Kosciuszko scrub I went through this time was horrendous and I was not prepared for it. After walking (slowly) and pushing through the scrub for many hours, we made it to Gungartan at 2068 metres for the night and camped right near the summit. Wow, what a view, and after a dinner of gnocchi with tomato sauce, and snacking on a pomegranate watching the sun set, we were entertained by the thousands of Bogong moths flying around. Now that was something special.

Sonya aged seven and her dad on top of KosciuszkoAdrian Muhlsimmer

Starting the Summit walk, Charlottes Pass to Kosciuszko, Sonya seven years old

Family picnic near Sawpit Creek, close to Rennix Gap Sonya is on the right, five years old

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During the night there was a little wind gust, not that I was aware of it as I was snug in my tent, and the tarp that Steve and James were sleeping under nearly flew away, and the edges were ripped where they tied it down. I woke to find James wrapped around and inside his tarp and Steve out in the open. So I think that was the end of their idea to use the tarp as shelter, it might be light but it obviously doesn’t provide much shelter. Perhaps Steve and James will have to sleep in the huts. First change of plan I guess. With heavy rain forecast and alpine exposure, maybe this was one reason not to aim for Thredbo.

The next day’s destination was Mawsons Hut, a nice easy walking day compared to the day before. A few small brown snakes were sighted along the way, but not much other wildlife. Mawsons Hut is pretty popular by the looks of it, as when we got there we were greeted with quite a few people. I even knew someone there from my bushwalking club, Joanne. I guess many other people had the same idea we had, and besides, where else would you want to be? It's a beautiful place to explore. As it was only a few kilometres

walking we rested for the remainder of the day looking over our maps, and over my burnt and scratched knees ... Pesto pasta was on the menu for dinner with a snack afterwards of gingerbread biscuits.

Valentine and Grey MareThe weather forecast for the next two days was not that great - rain, and lots of it. We decided to stay another night at Mawsons and have a day trip to Valentine Falls, easy enough as Valentine Hut was only a few kilometres away. From Mawsons we went north-west till we reached Valentine Creek. A lot of time was spent just along this part of the creek exploring through the large boulders. They looked quite dramatic against the threatening grey sky. Then we followed Valentine Creek down to Valentine Hut, The weather was holding out, and it was thought that the rain might not come at all. A few hours later at Valentine Hut it seemed that everyone we met at Mawsons was here, so a quick break was had and then we went off to the falls.

Steve was leading this trip, and initially it looked like a foot pad that we were following to the falls, and there was a track marked on my map on the south side of the river, but he took us on the north side across the creek around GR 231899, and north-west up to the

Valentine Creek, where we spent a long time exploring, day 3

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ridge and again through really thick scrub that was over my head, then down south-west on the side of the falls to the bottom where we had lunch, looking up at the falls. This was not an easy walk. The falls were great, but the scrub, well, was not so great. Lunch was enjoyed and then it started to rain so it was time to head back to Mawsons Hut. We walked along the Geehi River for nearly two kilometres till the river took a turn to the east at GR 225902 and then headed east, cutting through the thick scrub, again, to the ridge, and back to Mawsons Hut via the high point 1874 at GR 251895. About a kilometre from the hut, the fog came in which made it hard to navigate, and it was getting cold and the rain was starting to come down more. We had the hut to ourselves which was good as we put the fire on and could dry out our clothes. The other guests left a note to us saying a Tiger Snake paid a visit and was hanging around near the pit toilet but it was not seen by us. Mince and polenta was on the menu and it really warmed the soul. I even got to make some fresh bread for my lunch the next day. It was quite a nice night and having the hut to ourselves and we slept in the back room, out of the rain.

Grey Mare Hut was the next destination in just around nine kilometres away. The walking was pretty simple along the fire trail most of the way. But when it came to cross the Geehi River, due to all the rain from yesterday’s storm it took a while to find a

reasonable spot to cross, and our feet got wet. Luckily it was a perfect day, the sun was out which meant that the boots and feet would get put in the sun to dry when camp was reached. Grey Mare Hut is a fascinating place with all the mining relics strewn around. You can just imagine what it was like living out here working of the land all those years ago; it would have been hard work, but what a view to enjoy with Jagungal in the distance. Pumpkin curry and rice was for dinner, and for dessert, a snack of popcorn was served.

Derschkos HutThe next day it was off to Derschkos Hut. Walking along the fire trail was easy, with only a few minor creeks to cross. The weather was perfect, and the views and alpine flowers along the way were something spectacular. Jagungal was getting bigger and bigger as we got closer and the anticipation was rising to get to the summit, the next peak to climb. Steve had not been this far north so it was new ground for him, and James has never been out this way before so it was all new to him. The walk from Grey Mare Hut to Derschkos Hut only took a few hours, so lunch was at Derschkos, then an afternoon nap was on the agenda. Only a little nap was had as there was some serious exploring to do around this area. During

Big Bird from Grey Mare Hut, day 6

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the trip there was not much wildlife seen, apart from a few snakes so James was on a mission to go find some wildlife. The mission took us down to Pugilistic Creek then west over the plains and up to a clearing of stone, around GR 200995. Well, no wildlife apart from a few little birds that kept us entertained - they may have been little red robins but I am no expert. My thoughts were about how peaceful it is to sit back and watch the clouds roll by. Immersing yourself in the natural environment is so humbling. Anyway, some time had passed so we made our way back to Derschkos Hut for dinner, and I was hungry, Laksa was on the menu. After dinner I wandered up to the top of the hill behind the hut and watched the colours change with the setting sun over Jagungal. Tomorrow we will summit.

Jagungal and Grey MareIt was an early start on the Grey Mare Fire Trail on the west side of Jagungal to where the track crosses the Tumut River, and then the on-off track to the summit of Jagungal at 2062 metres, reached at around 8.30am. We had the peak to ourselves, and it was another perfect day where you could see for miles. Also, today is the first day of the year,

what a great way to start a new year I say. After a while of taking it all in we decided to head back to Grey Mare Hut for the night, Steve really liked this hut. On our way down we ran into a few of the people that we met at Derschkos Hut as they were heading up, I must say it was quite nice to have the summit to ourselves for a short period of time as it felt like our prize, reaching the summit before everyone else, it was ours. Going back to Grey Mare Hut meant we could take in the sights again of all the alpine flowers along the way; they are really spectacular out here at this time of year.

Back at Grey Mare it was time to wash out some clothes, relax and take in the view. In the distance it looked another storm was brewing over the Main Range as the cloud formation was fascinating. It was a unanimous vote that one of the clouds looked like Big Bird, think what you like however ... Honey soy and pork noodles was for dinner with some protein balls and chocolate for dessert.

Approaching Consett Stephen Pass, Tate in the background, day 8

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Schlink Hilton, Tate and homeThe trip was coming to an end, only one more night and it was planned to be at the Schlink Hilton Hut. Recrossing the Geehi River was not that bad as the water had receded somewhat from a few days ago after the storm. We didn’t get our feet wet this time. Luckily a log was found that we could cross over; this log was totally submerged a few days ago. It is amazing how quickly the weather and conditions can change out here. Grey Mare to Schlink Hilton was around 12 kilometres, reached by mid afternoon, in time for an afternoon nap. James and I were starting to feel tired after seven days; the walk was starting to take its toll on our bodies and legs I think. One more day and the last day will be a big one with a lot of distance to cover of around 15 kilometres, and a final peak to summit - Mount Tate.

In the early morning we walked to Schlink Pass, and started climbing up towards Dicky Cooper Bogong. This area is one of my favourite parts of the park with the mighty views and surroundings of the Granite Peaks, The Rolling Ground and Consett Stephen

Pass, oh and did I mention about the alpine flowers out at this time of year, and still there were patches of snow about. Mount Tate was reached and it was lunch time. The last lunch is pretty good as I find I always have a bit of food left over, and not having to ration anything, lunch time is a feast. Mount Tate stands at 2068 metres high and it is stunning up here. The views just go forever looking over colourful alpine flowers, granite boulders, mountain ranges and even granite boulders that look like jaws, don’t you think! Well that is what James and I thought.. Perhaps that comment should stay on the trail right ... So after lunch and taking it in, it was time to come off the range and head back home. I wanted to stay out for longer and keep walking, but I guess all holidays must come to an end at some time. From Tate we headed back to Consett Stephen

Between Tate and Consett Stephen Pass, heading towards the Rolling Ground, day 8

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Pass then as we reach the high point 1993 we headed off south-east and down the spur towards the power station. We were going to take one of those "short cuts" through the thick scrub again, and I can say I was not looking forward to that part. Over the open plain at GR 245768 before it got really steep, and into the thick scrub we passed a section of dead gum trees that were wiped out by the 2003 fires. It looked eerie in a sense as they just looked like mangled sun bleached skeletons, they were so white and there was so many. I spent quite some time taking photos and exploring around. Perhaps that also entailed procrastination, not wanting to go through the scrub or not wanting to go home and relish what little time I have left up here, but it really was quite something to see. Looking at the undergrowth, the mangled skeleton trees would have been pretty old considering the scrub is about 15 years old; the scrub has a long way to grow till they get to the size of what the trees were before the fire. To see the damage and destruction of what a fire can do, and to consider the amount of time nature takes to recover is quite disturbing.

Down the spur and through the thick scrub we finally reached the surge tank, gee that tank is big, and then a steep walk down the side of the penstocks to the power station. You don’t realise how big this structure is, and how long the pipes are until you are up against it, and how steep the track is to walk down. I was zigzagging all the way down to ease the pressure on my knees. We got to the car and then we were on our way home. Another trip done, but I will be back in this park in winter for my annual pilgrimage to the snow. So long Kosciuszko, till next time we meet.