View from the bottom of Thunderush rapid, looking towards The SanctumAll pictures are by the author

Although I have had many marvellous adventures during the last 25 years, if I was pressed to state which was the most memorable, I would have to say that rafting the Franklin River comes out as number one.

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On the normal trip schedule we would be spending the night camped here, however with the good water level we had made quick time (only an hour) so we voted unanimously to continue onward and piled back into the two rafts. The rest of the afternoon was mainly long stretches of flat water, mixed with occasional rapids, as we made our way down the narrow valley, which again was lined with beautiful forest and flowering tea-tree. Boulder Brace was a fun rapid to bounce through and the tall, overhanging quartzite cliffs of Angel Rain Cavern were impressive to float alongside. Soon after, we came to the first portage at the Log Jam. A large log has blocked the river here and a beautiful tall, slim waterfall showers gently into the river alongside it, making it a quite lovely spot. The rafts were heaved over the log and we were soon off again through more long stretches of flat water and minor rapids. The next portage was at Nasty Notch, where we piled out and with ropes hauled the rafts past a large rock and a very nasty looking hole that you'd definitely not want to be swept into. Not far downstream from there, we entered Descension Gorge, and after our guide briefly stopped to scout the way ahead, it was then a fast, exciting slide

through the rapids before we dropped over a final ledge into the suddenly tranquil slot of the Irenabyss. It was wonderful to slowly float for about 200 metres between the sheer cliff walls before we exited left and pulled into our camp for the night. I was still sick as a dog, but it had been a wonderful introduction to white water rafting.

Being so ill and sleep deprived I opted to skip breakfast, slept in and spent the next day enjoying the serenity at Irenabyss Campsite. It was a bit inclement in the morning, so the party that had earlier set off to climb Frenchmans Cap returned, having turned back due to the low cloud and bitingly cold wind. Fortunately that was no problem for myself, as I've climbed the Cap several times over the years. The sun came out in the afternoon and it was lovely to just sit atop the cliffs and watch the ever changing patterns of foam slowly drift along the Irenabyss; looking like works of modern art etched on the dark tannin-stained water. The others read books or chatted and then a few of us ended the day by paddling back up along the length of the Irenabyss to take a few photos and enjoy the atmosphere of this remarkable chasm for a final time.

Drifting along the Irenabyss, late afternoon, day 2

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Day 3: Irenabyss to The CrankleIt was cloudy but fine, and like the remainder of the trip, we had a leisurely breakfast and didn't hit the water until mid-morning. As we were doing the trip across 10 days, there was no need to hurry along the river. I definitely recommend spending the extra money so that you can enjoy the more relaxed schedule.

The river valley remained narrow, with scrub visible higher up the steep valley walls, but with the river remaining lined by rainforest and flowering tea-tree. The day's paddling was a mix of long flat stretches, some faster flowing sections where we could just drift along, as well as the occasional sets of short, easy rapids. By this stage I was slightly disappointed that there weren't more adrenaline thrills to be had, but the beautiful scenery more than made up for it. The long stretch of cliffs known as the Walls of Jericho were a highlight, as was paddling around the major bend in the river known as the Crankle (so named for the way it twists and turns through every direction of the compass). At the end of the Crankle we pulled ashore at a small sandy beach that was to be our camp for the night. Later on, after dinner our senior guide would start amusing and tormenting us with guessing mind games ... but that is another story.

Day 4: The Crankle to CorruscadesAfter some overnight rain and morning showers, day four was mainly a fine mixture of cloud and sunshine. The river remained narrow, with a reasonable current, so it was an easy paddle to our next stop, which was the impressive Blushrock Falls. This is the tallest waterfall along the Franklin River and it plunges in three stages down the valley wall. We all climbed to the top of the first stage and a few did the steeper bit to the top of the second stage. After a snack, it was back into the rafts and soon enough we entered the start of the Great Ravine. This had been the section of the trip that I had most been looking forward to and it didn't disappoint. As we entered the gorge we dropped through Side Slip rapid into a long quiet pool, with Oriel Rock looming ahead at the end of it. This marked the site of The Churn, the first of the four rapids in the Great Ravine that need to be portaged.

So far I had been a bit underwhelmed by the rapids, but The Churn marked a serious step upwards in danger and had to be scouted. We piled out and climbed to a high rock to assess the situation. In the months before the trip started, I had wondered whether we would have to unload and deflate and carry the large rafts around the more serious rapids. I was still pretty sick, so I was rather

Afternoon at Serenity Sound, day 4

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of The Sanctum. Cirrus clouds had earlier passed overhead when we had lunch, and sure enough it turned overcast and gloomy as we reached the final rapid called The Cauldron. Here the river is blocked by several enormous slabs of rock, but the water level was low enough to permit the raft to be manhandled along the right side of the rapid. As this is the spot where a river guide had been drowned several years before, I was quite happy to leave the manhandling to the guides and three of the other male passengers. I watched them get the first raft through and then I set off along the portage track high above the river. On reaching the cliffs further along the river bank, I looked back upstream and was rather surprised to see that all had not gone to plan with the second raft. It was stuck upside down in the water. After several more goes, the stranded group seemed to be signalling for help, so I went ahead to find the senior guide at the earlier raft. He didn't think there was much he could do about it, but he borrowed a kayak from a group of kayakers he had come across, and

then paddled his way up the lower part of the rapid to shout some instructions. Soon after, another raft arrived and together they were able to flip the raft back upright and we were good to go again. The moral of the day's story is that even the experts can come undone on this river.

Below The Cauldron we paddled easily along the last quiet stretch known as Deliverance Reach. The mood seemed as subdued as the now increasingly grey skies overhead. We passed the Masterpiece Alcove and then after drifting past a tall, thin rock rib known as The Biscuit, the Great Ravine suddenly ended, as we entered the broad pool known as Rafters Basin. Our senior guide left us to set up camp and start dinner, as he left to have a chat with the other groups camped nearby. I suspect he also felt that he'd done quite enough to fix the misadventures of the day that had befallen the other guide! There are plenty of good sheltered campsites at Rafters Basin, so having safely completed the traverse of the Great Ravine, we settled in early for the night.

Day 6: Rafters Basin to Newland CascadesThe rain arrived during the night. Half of us passengers were bushwalkers, so we were happily snug and dry in our tents. The remainder of the group had chosen not to bring tents, and were instead sleeping under a large tarp, so they had a much less comfortable night. The rain continued in the morning but stopped just before we set off, so thankfully the remainder of the day was fine but heavily overcast.

After crossing the shallow rapid at the end of Rafters Basin, the valley walls quickly closed in again and there was noticeably more current now. We'd had a very late start, and didn't have far to go today, so we took our time drifting and slowly paddling down the valley, which was clad as always in beautiful forest, with the mist still covering the upper parts of the valley walls. On passing the Mountt McCall haulageway, I reflected on what a debt we owe to the Franklin campaigners, as the second dam that had been planned for this site would have

The Sanctum, day 5

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showery, but it was nice to admire the Pig Trough Falls, which fall attractively in two stages through the rainforest, before spilling across the sandstone shelf that provides that famous view of Rock Island Bend itself. I returned to the camp for lunch, then two of the other passengers joined me on a final visit to Rock Island Bend. The sun had come out and we sat there for a couple of hours, transfixed by the beauty of the place; the Rock boldly standing in defiance of the river, the swirling patterns of foam from the adjacent Pig Trough rapid sweeping past and around the bend, the forest standing proudly on the steep slopes, the sandstone cliffs rising upwards, the largely hidden waterfall as a gorgeous side dish. It was a real privilege to be able to see the place in so many different moods of weather.

The guides and the rest of the passengers remained at Newland Cascades, some ran the rapid again, some went for a swim, several read their books, three indulged in a spot of rock climbing. Regardless of how it was spent, everyone agreed it was a great place to spend some extra time.

Day 8: The lower Franklin RiverDay eight was glorious and sunny. Although we had a fair way to travel today, it was still late morning before we hit the water. A short paddle took us through the easy lower part of Newland Cascades and then suddenly the character of the landscape and the river totally changes. We had left the quartzite and sandstone gorge country, and found ourselves travelling along a wide, largely flat valley. The river became much wider and slow moving as it gently meandered along through the mixed rainforest. Some low, grey limestone cliffs soon appeared and we popped ashore with torches to explore part of the narrow Proina Cave in search of cave spiders.

On returning to the rafts we found our guides had tied them together in single file. This helps decrease the drag, for apart from when we are going through rapids, the rafts will be tied together and we'll be paddling in alternating shifts of 15 minutes each per raft crew. At first I wondered about this, but after a few stints it became clear that it was a better arrangement, so that everyone aboard did their fair share of the paddling, after having a rest to enjoy the scenery slowly passing by. There was little current,

Rock Island Bend, day 7

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Back in tandem we paddled onward to Big Fall Beach, which is a sand bank opposite a curved line of limestone cliffs, making a good spot for a snack break. It was further to Big Fall from there than I expected, but we pulled ashore there and clambered onto the deeply potholed limestone bank for a close look at the fall. The single drop is only 1.5-2 metres, but I knew well that the stopper wave at the foot of the falls is deceptively powerful. On a previous sea kayaking trip up the Gordon and lower Franklin, I had seen it effortlessly flip and barrel roll a large commercial raft. Our guides pulled the rafts using a rope over the dangerous drop without incident and hopped aboard for the short paddle to the much taller cliffs of Galleon Bluff. Pengana Cave is found within the cliff, having been carved in part by a narrow stream which flows through the large main chamber. Further upstream the stream has carved a narrow chasm known as The Lost World, which was well worth exploring.

We spent a few hours here, then continued downstream and paused from paddling, to slowly drift past Verandah Cliffs. I was rather

surprised the guides decided not to stop here, but no matter, as I was back in familiar territory and had previously spent several nights camped here. The Verandah Cliffs have a very special atmosphere.

The remainder of the Franklin River was flat water, with only a few gentle shingle rapids and eventually we reached Pyramid Island, where the Franklin River joins into the Gordon River. Although I knew full well just how much colder the waters of the Gordon River are, I reluctantly gave into peer group pressure, and took part in the allegedly traditional swim that marks the end of the traverse of the Franklin. Then for a bit of fun we all manned the paddles and tried to tow one of the teenagers behind us, body surfing style.

We entered the Gordon Gorge and swept past the site of the outlawed Gordon below Franklin Dam, pausing to reflect on just how fortunate we were, that people power triumphed here instead of the vested interests that care for little other than the size of their wallets. It was getting late in the now very overcast afternoon, and we were getting weary from paddling the joined rafts, so it was a slow slog along the length of the

Galleon Bluff and the entrance to Pengana Cave, day 9

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deep, flat water of the otherwise beautiful gorge. Eventually we rounded a final gradual bend and pulled ashore at the jetty at Sir John Falls, which marked the end of our rafting journey. An hour or so later the yacht Stormbreaker appeared, which was to be our lift the following morning. The captain provided some bottles of champagne and we toasted to our guides and to the end of our wonderful rafting adventure.

Day 10: Return to Strahan and HobartIt rained heavily overnight and we were woken shortly before dawn to break camp and climb aboard the Stormbreaker, where we had breakfast as the yacht slowly motored down the wide, deep, peaceful Gordon River. Unfortunately the rain and wind meant that the famous still reflections of the rainforest in the river were not to be ours today, but I've seen that many times before and the river remains beautiful and almost other worldly in bad weather anyhow. After breakfast I ended up falling asleep on a bunk as we neared the start of Macquarie Harbour. I only woke as we pulled into the wharf at Strahan, where the guides played rock, paper, scissors to decide who would

have to empty the heavy toilet (poo) bag into the rubbish skip. It was only on this last day that I was finally free of the flu.

Taking a commercial trip along the Franklin River is not a cheap experience. But it was worth every single bit of the $3000 charged. In return I experienced 10 days of 360 degree beauty, learnt some new skills, met some nice people, and had the occasional adrenaline rush (though I still think most of the Franklin River is pretty tame so far as rapids go). The guides were entertaining and the food was great. You certainly won't lose any weight on a guided trip!!

It will take something pretty extraordinary to knock this journey off its place atop my list of favourite adventures and I sincerely hope that many of you reading this, will someday get the chance to see it for yourself. Until then, I hope you enjoy the (many) photos in the links. After he completed his first trip down the Franklin River, Peter Dombrovskis

Verandah Cliffs, day 9

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Richard is from Western Australia and is a keen bushwalker and amateur photographer. Since 1990 he has explored many Tasmanian national parks and reserves. He usually bushwalks alone and in recent years he has completed many journeys of one to two weeks duration into the more remote, rarely visited parts of the wilderness. After rafting the Franklin River, Richard was inspired to take up pack rafting and he has made pack raft trips along the Denison, Gordon and Jane Rivers, and has visited the Gordon Splits. He finds that with each visit there is always something new and enchanting about the beauty of the Tasmanian wilderness.

A No Dams sticker