My husband Gary, our dear friends Mack and Vicki and I embarked on a walk in Victoria along the Southern Ocean, the Great Ocean Walk (GOW), 104 kilometres. With lots of training carrying backpacks full of sand or weights and weekends walking Mount Cootha we were all set to start on Sunday 6 September 2015 from Marengo, 2 kilometres from Apollo Bay.

Twelve ApostlesMack Dreyer

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The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul.

Along the GOW at various stages there are decision points: the following sign was one of the first ones we came across:

“The GOW follows the inland route. Only attempt to walk along the coast during low tide. The beach and rock platforms can be regularly covered by rising tides and waves and consist of deep gutters, poor sightlines, rock scrambling and lack of escape routes!”

After the initial rock scrambling on the coast line and then walking along the beach for quite a few hours we came across another sign advising of another alternative route – inland. This time we chose the inland route.

After following the inland route for some time we finally got into Blanket Bay mid-afternoon after a long walking day; we had combined two days walks into one, 22 kilometres. Fortunately for us the weather was fine and we got to set up and bask in the afternoon sunlight. Only the four of us were camped at Blanket Bay overlooking the ocean. Magic, peaceful and a great start to our adventure.

Day Two – Day Four Cape Otway – Aire River – Johanna Beach We were lucky to get our tents down in dry weather though it wasn’t long before showers and wind set in. It showered as we walked along boardwalks and crossed boot hygiene cleaning stations, then climbed to Point Lewis Lookout. After leaving the lookout we had to cross the Parker River estuary keeping clear of waves as the tide was rising. There is no inland track for about 100 metres.

After this section we headed up and up and up along the old tramway route and then along the beautiful cliff tops, gazing out to the magnificent ocean before finally reaching Cape Otway Light station. It was blowing an absolute gale and there were showers along the way.

Cape Otway is the oldest working lighthouse in Australia. We did the lighthouse tour which was fantastic, just the four of us. We walked around the outside with the anemometer reading over 80 km/h. The Lighthouse Keeper was certainly a character and explained all the workings. I definitely recommend the tour.

We then went into the cafe and warmed up with a hot chocolate and scones. I recommend lunch here, avoiding carrying

Blanket Bay campsiteSue O'Connor

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this meal - every bit of weight counts! The smell of the burgers and soup looked and smelled better than our wraps and peanut paste. Like the lighthouse tour, it was just the four of us walking to the Cape Otway camping ground, where we spent the night.

Day three was a beautiful fine day and saw us heading from Cape Otway to Aire River. We followed the inland track along the cliff tops, with spectacular views out to the Southern Ocean. When walking along the cliff tops I couldn’t take my eyes away from the spectacular scenery. The beauty of the ocean gave my mind a cleansing and it felt like I didn’t have a worry in the world.

It was really beautiful looking out to where the Aire River came in and met the Southern Ocean – a river meeting up with wild seas – stunning. The Aire River camp ground is not much further, you cross a bridge across the Aire River and walk through an open area – up another hill and you come to the actual camping grounds. Due to vehicular access this camping ground was quite busy. Down on the water's edge there were quite a few koalas, such beautiful unique animals. Watching them eat their way through leaf after leaf never seeming to be filled up was

Aire River meeting the oceanVicki Dreyer

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a great way to spend the afternoon. They look so cuddly and cute, and it was great to get up so close to them in their natural surrounds.

We had another young couple Natalie and Ben join us, which was good for Vicki and I as now there were four of us that could play cards together. I finally got to put up my Ticket to the Moon hammock so I could lie back and read in the tranquil bush setting. The hammock was an extra kilogram and definitely worth carrying!

The next morning we left Aire River and followed the track along the cliffs with spectacular views of the ocean. We walked through eucalypt woodland and grass trees.

We stopped along the way for a snack of chocolate whilst gazing out at the most amazing view of the wild Southern Ocean.

We then descended to Johanna Beach for a two kilometre walk along the sand – hard work and with the tide coming in we again

had to dodge the waves! Along the beach we came across the most vibrant green moss-covered rocks. We had a rest here before the hard slog up the sand dunes to get back onto the bush track to head to Johanna Beach camping ground.

We arrived at Johanna Beach camping ground which is beautiful. Talk about first-class camp sites either on the edge with views out to the ocean or hidden away in the bush.

Day 5 Johanna Beach to Ryans DenWe left the beautiful Johanna Beach camping ground to head to Ryans Den. We passed through beautiful farmland with kangaroos galore who were blissfully unaware of us walking up and up and up. Even though we were heading inland, the vibrant green of the farmland was beautiful. Parts of the walk were along the Old Coach Road, still beautiful walking through farmland. We had to climb over a gate to get access to Milanesia Beach after which we started our descent to Milanesia Beach, having to cross

Johanna BeachVicki Dreyer

Moss covered rocks at Johanna BeachSue O'Connor

Well earned rest, campground above Johanna BeachVicki Dreyer

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two creeks (no bridges) and also negotiate the incoming waves with the water flowing from the creek, which led to many laughs watching someone (Mack) trying desperately not to get his boots wet. Mack did get across but failed in keeping his boots dry!

We came across an old beach shack (prime location) and had a snack, rest, and just basically chilled out in the beauty of our surrounds. Stayed for quite a while, it was absolutely beautiful.

After chilling for a while we started back walking along the beach and then had a massive ascent up and up and up some more. There were beautiful views along the way, so we stopped, and also to catch our breath. We finally reached Ryans Den,

another fantastic walk in camping ground. Natalie and Ben were also camped here so Vicki and I ended up playing cards with them after dinner. Another beautiful day travelling along the GOW.

Day 6 Ryans Den to Devils KitchenThe walk today from Ryans Den to Devils Kitchen was a really hard slog with lots of stairs. We walked along cliff top tracks crossing a number of wet forested gullies via wooden bridges.

We finally got to the Devils Kitchen walk in camping ground, and bypassed Wreck Beach; I didn’t think we could face the 366 steps up to the camping ground. The hard slog though was certainly worth it as the camping ground was stunning, with absolutely gorgeous views from the top. We all just sat up there watching the sun set, sipping on a flask of rum and lost in our own thoughts and soaking up the beauty of our surrounds.

Along the way we were fortunate not only to stay in camping grounds with top views but also meet fellow adventurers. One young couple from the US Natalie and Ben joined us on a few nights. They had many stories, with lots of laughs and card games to follow.

Track to Milanesia BeachVicki Dreyer

Friends, we made it - Mack, Vicki, Sue and GaryMack Dreyer

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Sue lives in Brisbane with her husband Gary and son Sheamus who are also keen bushwalkers. Their eldest son Riley lives in Edinburgh with his Irish partner Mary-Ann. Sue works full time, keeps active with crossfit, and cycling to and from work. Sue loves being outdoors, and exploring new destinations. Sue says “the fact that I can carry everything I need on my back and get to places where cars can’t go gives me a sense of accomplishment. To walk, set up camp, sleep and then do it all again the next day surrounded by beauty and with family and/or friends is my idea of a perfect holiday”.