Heading up The Kerries, Sonya, Bruce and Joe, day 6Erica Griffiths

For many years I have made an annual winter pilgrimage to Kosciuszko National Park for back-country skiing. For the last three years this trip has been eight days with my friends Steve and Joe. Steve and Joe are actually known as the Bob-Brothers, yes that is right, the Bob-Brothers. You may have heard of them, or had the privilege of meeting them or even read their stories of travel and adventure in the KHA hut log books; they have been skiing together for many years.

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There are a few Bob-Brothers in this clan, and this year Erica-Bob and Bruce-Bob came along. There are, of course other Brothers from way back but I have not met them. It is a tight-knit clan I must say as not everyone that comes skiing makes it into the brotherhood. The Bob-Brothers are not actually brothers by blood, they are brothers bound by adventure. Well, I am proud to say that I have become the new honourary member of the Bob-Brothers and I am now known as Sonya-Bob, and this is the Bob-Brothers story for this year.

PreludeThis year we thought we would try our luck with a pulk. According to Wikipedia a pulk is "(from Finnish pulkka) is a Nordic short, low-slung small toboggan used in sport or for transport, pulled by a dog or a skier, or in Lapland pulled by reindeer". However, Joe had a pulk last year but needed some modifications and I tried out a modified toboggan but it was not that good. I had a lot of hassles with it, spending most of the time carrying my pack and towing the empty toboggan. Due to last year's experiences, months of preparation went into the 2018 trip. First the pulks were ordered from Canada, then poles were needed to fit. Harnesses were also needed to fit our waists, then the connections to clip it altogether had to be

considered, and then to make sure the pulks actually worked. It was going to be a trip of trial and tribulation. Steve-Bob liked the modified toboggan idea so he embarked on his own version of that, christening his new modified toboggan as the PULK.GT, as it even had a number plate. Well, let’s see how it all goes for all of us this time. Also for the last three years we have been aiming for Mount Jagungal, but we have not made it due to certain circumstances. Will we make it this year I wonder.

Day 1 – Guthega Power Station to Horse Camp Hut With the new pulks clipped in and towed behind, we were off. The pulks felt quite good going up the hill, much easier pulling a pulk up a hill than carrying a heavy rucksack on your back, so far so good. But, with river crossings, you have to unclip the pulk from the harness, take off your skis, carry the skis then come back to carry the pulk across,

From the back, Steve, Bruce and Erica going up the hill from Guthega Power Station, day 1Sonya Muhlsimmer

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and then clip in again. The pulk does have its advantages and disadvantages, but it is only day one and I am still getting used to it. After the creek crossing it was an easy short run to Horse Camp Hut, made in good time. Lunch and a cuppa was had and then tents were set up for the night. The last few years Horse Camp Hut has been the first and last night of the trip, and that means food can be buried for the last night’s meal, and less weight to tow during the trip - a bonus! As there were five in the trip this year, two bottles of wine were stashed in the food drop for the last night, perhaps a bit excessive, or perhaps not enough ... Bruce cooked dinner for all and chilli con carne was on the menu.

Day 2 – Horse Camp Hut to Schlink HiltonSnow was falling, and winds up to 75 km/h over Schlink Pass were forecast. Last year we experienced the worst blizzard in recorded history, with 95 km/h winds, so today should not be too bad considering. The Aqueduct trail was chosen so there was a short steep hill at the start. Today Steve struggled a bit with the pulk and had to stop to make repairs en-route, however Erica, Joe and I continued on while Steve and Bruce did a bit of maintenance. It was too cold and windy to hang around. With goggles on, faces and head down pushing through the wind over the pass, we got to Schlink Hilton,

home for the night. We did not know how far behind Steve and Bruce were, or even if they headed back to Horse Camp; time will tell. At least they are experienced, and if they don’t turn up tonight it will be back to Horse Camp tomorrow for the rest of us. Ah, luck was on our side as we have the hut to ourselves, which means sleeping in the hut and out of the wind. After about an hour and a half Steve and Bruce turn up. It was Steve’s turn to cook tonight but he was a bit exhausted from the trip - not only was his pulk an issue but he had not fully recovered from his flu. I decided to take my turn to cook, and dinner was an experiment with dehydrated vegetable and chorizo tagine and cous cous. Dinner turned out all right if I say so myself.

Day 3 – Schlink HiltonSteve decided he was going to stay in the hut for the remainder of the week so the rest of us decided to stay for a day. Perhaps after a day Steve will change his mind and we can all continue together. Strong winds were forecast again today and another front was on its way, so we may not be missing out on that much anyway. After morning tea Joe, Bruce and I did a recce to see which way we can get up to The Kerries with a pulk in tow. Well the winds were not strong at all and blue sky was peeking through, it looked like it was trying to clear up. The snow was good except for a few big ice patches, it would have been a great day to ski to Mawsons over The Kerries. Sure it would have been a bit windy over The Kerries but it would have

Joe battling the blizzard at Schlink Pass, day 2Sonya Muhlsimmer

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been fine. Oh well, it was not to be, back to Schlink for lunch. In the afternoon Joe, Erica and I went for a bit of a ski along the road towards Valentine Hut and we could see a blanket of fog slowly closing in on us. Perhaps we missed our break in the weather and we will be stuck at Schlink for another day. We spent some time looking at the ice formations on the trees and leaves, and just enjoying being out, but then the visibility was getting pretty bad as the fog was starting to engulf us. Back at the hut, we had Phil and Mike from Canberra turn up, en-route to Mawsons Hut for six nights. They did a food drop to Mawsons a few months back so they have to make it there. Phil and Mike baked up some impressive looking damper, Phil is quite an expert of a foil oiler, he presented me with a business card that said “Whenever you need foil oiled, Phil da Man”. He is a fellow of the Royal College of Foil Oilers. It must be true as he has a business card, right? But gee he could oil the foil, he was an expert ... Steve cooked pasta tonight and we had a choice of sauce of either rehydrated bolognaise, or puttanesca. Depending on the weather tomorrow our itinerary could be Mawsons Hut, preferable as it is closer to Jagungal, or Valentine Hut, wait and see what this front brings.

Day 4 – Schlink Hilton to Valentine HutA few things were certain today. The front has come as visibility was poor and the wind was strong. Steve is staying behind, Joe,

Bruce, Erica and I were off to Valentine Hut and Phil and Mike were off to Mawsons. After breakfast it was time to pack up, we said our farewells to Steve and into the blizzard we go. So it is a few days in to pulling the pulk, but today other challenges arose. Just after the weather station, we were trying to zigzag down the hill as much as we could to get to the creek crossing, but as the hill was quite steep the pulks were getting away from us, sliding to the side of us. It was a bit of a challenge to control the pulks, and then the unthinkable happened: Bruce’s pole broke under pressure of the turning. What to do now ... It was discussed that the pulk could stay behind here, and we could pick it up on return, but we did not want to return this way so Joe and Bruce took out their repair kit to see what they could do. It was worth trying to fix it somehow than to leave it behind. The broken pole could not quite be repaired effectively so the last option to try was tape a tent pole around the break and see how far that would last. Well, that seemed to work but for how long? The next challenge was to cross the creek over the small foot bridge. After doing a lot of backwards and forwards, stepping the snow down, carrying the skis across and then carrying the pulks across it was time to climb the hill. Some tracks could be seen further down to the west and we

Joe, Erica and Bruce at Valentine Hut, day 4Sonya Muhlsimmer

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had wondered where they came from. The next night at Mawsons after talking to other people we discovered there was a larger foot bridge on the creek north of the weather station, right on the Valentine Fire trail we could have used, never mind we made it across. I used this bridge in summer but I had forgotten about it. Later on, following Duck Creek along a slope towards Valentine Hut my pulk got away from me and did a "death turn", the pulk twisted and nearly pulled me away with it, Bruce had to help me untwist. Finally reaching Valentine Hut it was time to eat and rest, it turned out to be a beautiful afternoon with the sun coming out. Joe, Bruce and Erica went for a ski to collect some water and search for the next foot bridge while I rested. For afternoon tea we snacked on some rehydrated eggplant dip, goat cheese, sun dried tomato, biscuits and wine. Again there was no one in the hut so we took advantage of that and slept inside. Joe cooked a rich, traditional Italian ragout - gee things are tough out here.

Day 5 – Valentine Hut to Mawsons Hut The sun was out, a few clouds were in the sky and it was a beautiful day as we left for Mawsons. Last year in winter Joe, Steve and I were looking for a foot bridge to cross Valentine Creek, we knew roughly where it was we just had to find it, and yesterday it was found when the Brothers were out

collecting water. The bridge is only a few hundred metres away from Valentine Hut and around 20 metres south-east from where the creek rising in The Kerries meets Valentine Creek and is so easily missed. It depends on the snow conditions of course but yesterday Erica was standing next to the creek looking for the bridge and could not see it. She took a step closer to the creek and what do you know, there it was right under her nose. After crossing the creek Mawsons is only a few kilometres away and then Jagungal will be within our sight. Mawsons is a popular hut at any time of the year, and there were 10 at the hut that night. The hut was cosy and we were all taking turns to sit in front of the fire, and Mike was reciting poetry. There was also discussion that high winds around 120 km/h were expected at Perisher soon. Joe and I wanted to summit Jagungal but Bruce and Erica were not so keen. They wanted to get back to Steve and have two easy skiing days, and avoid the strong winds where Joe and I were ready for two very long, tough days. It was already Wednesday and we had a time frame to be back at Horse Camp on Friday night, see what the day brings tomorrow. Needless to say, I am hoping to summit. Noodles with rehydrated sausage in a tomato sauce was for dinner.

Camp at Mawsons Hut with Jagungal in sight, day 5Sonya Muhlsimmer

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Day 6 – Mawsons Hut to Schlink HiltonWhat a perfect day for summiting as there was not a cloud in the sky, I wanted so much to make Jagungul but only Joe wanted to come with me. I was reluctant to head back as I had summit fever, perhaps I could go with John and his son and catch up with the Brothers at Horse Camp on Friday night, but that makes two huge days for me and I will be on my own coming back and I am not ready to ski on my own yet. Oh well, Jagungal will have to wait another year as back to Schlink we go. With the sun shining down as we traversed The Kerries it was a dream day for skiing, and it was a winter wonderland through the trees, but admittedly looking back to Jagungal was hard as I so wanted to be up there. Only a couple of kilometres back to Schlink and we see someone in the distance, is it our fellow brother Steve? Yes it is, the Bob-Brothers are finally united and a lunch stop was called and stories started flowing from the last few days apart. Once we arrived back at Schlink chairs

were placed outside and the remainder of the day was for drinking tea and reading books, oh and playing with the pulks as Joe went for a slide then Steve pulled him along. Joe’s home-made Italian sausage was for entree, vegetable stew with dumplings for dinner and finished off with chocolate cake for dessert. Yes things are really tough out here ...

Day 7 – Schlink Hilton to Horse Camp HutTonight is our last night out. With a meal and two bottles of wine waiting for us, we head back to Horse Camp Hut but not until we have a bit of fun at Schlink Pass, one by one doing a funny pose for a photo under the Schlink Pass sign. Again it was a beautiful day with the sun out and yes there was a bit of wind about but nothing too bad. Perhaps over The Kerries the winds would have howling which we would have been stuck in. I am not looking forward to coming home as it always takes me a while to adjust back to reality after a week out in the wilderness. As soon as you get back into reception the phone goes off, bad news is everywhere and there's that melancholy feeling of when a trip is over. At least we have started talking about our trip next year already. Taking the Schlink Trail this time back to Horse Camp and down near the Munyang River crossing we run out of snow. Off with the skis and pulks to carry them across the creek and back up to the snow line, luckily it was less than 100 metres.

Mawsons Hut with Jagugal in the background, day 6Sonya Muhlsimmer

Schlink Hilton resting, day 6Sonya Muhlsimmer

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Back at Horse Camp Hut there were around 16 people, a busy night. Bruce wanted to continue and go straight home but the rest of us were not keen, and besides with the amount of road kill and wildlife out it was not safe driving through the night as there was so much carnage along the road coming down. I was not keen on a near seven hour drive home dodging kangaroos and wombats, so we stayed. The hut felt like a pub with the fairy lights on and so many people, and then the weather took a turn for the worse as it started pouring with rain outside. I hope my tent does not leak. We were going to be up as early as we can and out of there so if things get wet it won’t matter as the cars are only a few hours away. Still I hope the tent does not leak. In our food drop, Bruce had a chicken curry for dinner, and after we had a couple of mugs of wine (some drank more than others) it did not feel so bad being here. Well I can say that the tent did not leak and it held up pretty well in these conditions.

Day 8 - Horse Camp Hut to Guthega Power StationWe awoke early and the tent fabric had frozen solid, Erica and I were sharing the tent so we bashed the ice off the sides, and I punched a snow wall which formed overnight from the entrance of the tent to get out. Steve camped nearby and when he awoke and saw my tent he came and shovelled the snow off the back, so it appeared that there

was a lot of snow overnight. We were quick to get ready and pack, and we were back by the cars in no time and made our way into Jindabyne for some real coffee. And the trip was over for another year.

Jagungal 2019So next year we will try the trip again with a few modifications to the pulks and extra pieces in our repair kit. But overall the pulks were good, a few hassles but getting the weight off your back was good and it was much easier going up hills. I think Steve will try a pulk next year too. But it does give the illusion that you can carry more in your pack, like a few bottles of wine, goat cheese and of course extra chocolate. The talk of coming in from Cesjack looks promising too. That way we can summit Jagungal in two or three days and a greater chance that we make it. Overall it was a great week, and I am looking forward to next year.

Sonya at Schlink Pass, Dicky Cooper Bogong slope behindErica Griffiths