BushwalkBushwalk
At Home
in the Hartz
Text and photosPhoebe Roberts
Hartz Lake at sunrise with the Milligania densiflora in flower
The Hartz Mountain National Park is by far my most visited national park in Tasmania and for many good reasons. The Hartz is part of Tasmania's Wilderness World Heritage Area, so it's easy to see why such a place could be put at the top of the list for many a hiker. There's a lot to see: ancient glacial lakes, rugged dolerite peaks, a huge variety of alpine plants often in flower at various times during the year, and a sneak peek into the breathtaking Southwest National Park.
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The soft pastel colours of the sunset
Have you ever visited a track enough that it soon becomes like your second home? Well, for me it's the Hartz, and I've lost count of how many times I've taken the 40 minute drive down to this spectacular pocket of Tasmania. I often visit after work to cook dinner at Lake Esperance listening to the birds and watching while the sun goes down.
In April 2021 whilst on a hike up at the Tarn Shelf with my Dad and younger brother to visit the change of the Fagus (Nothofagus gunnii) I fractured my knee, so hiking, unfortunately, was on the backburner for a long recovery. The injury forced me to stop bushwalking for months, so I started Pink Robin Exploring, also on Instagram.
Hartz – the recovery tripThe injury meant that 2021 was quiet, so we were keen to get back in the outdoors every chance we could get. At the end of 2021 there was a gentle start with a few shorter day walks. In 2022 there was an enjoyable day hike to Mount Snowy in the Hartz Mountain NP with my Dad, where I spied a good looking spot to spend the night for any future adventures. Arriving home full of excitement
after a long awaited day amongst the mountains, it wasn’t long before a plan was hatched to explore the camp spot.
My husband had recently recovered from meniscus surgery, and we decided that a short trip up to the Hartz for the night would be the best medicine. The good weather forecast and a free weekend made this an easy choice. It was a great opportunity to test out our knees to gauge where we were with the recovery in the hope of catching the sunrise at the peak.
Day 1This was no big undertaking. It's only a short easy walk to the tarns up at Hartz, especially after all the track works over the last couple of years. But it was a good little tester for both our bodies and to help find that centre of gravity with full packs once again.
The emotions were running high that weekend with us being back out in our tents, sleeping amongst the mountains. Incredible weather and amazing surroundings left us feeling so appreciative of what we have.
Our spot for the night
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Our sublime camp spot had a perfect seat to enjoy the soft pastel colours of the sunset. A warm breeze, a cold beer, the excitement of being back outdoors and the quiet of the mountains meant that there wasn't much to say, so we both soaked it all up and let it fill our hearts.
How we missed the quiet.
Our plan to summit the peak the next day and enjoy the sunrise on Hartz Pass, meant waking up at 5 am. But for now, it was the end of a great day as we slipped into our tents, eager for what tomorrow would bring.
Day 2 – the summitAs I unzipped my tent, still half asleep, I felt the gentle warm breeze of a hot day to come. My eyes adjusted to the darkness, and it wasn't long before I locked my sights on the horizon set ablaze with the promise of a sunrise not to be missed.
With a holler to Mat to get his butt out of his tent, I chucked on my boots and I was up and at 'em, camera in hand.
Not five minutes had passed, and just as we got our heads together to set off for Hartz Pass, we heard footsteps coming along the track - two dedicated women up early for the sunrise. We could hear the anticipation and excitement in their voices, knowing they'd made the right decision with an early wake up for the sunrise.
With the birds starting to wake to cheer us on, it was truly a beautiful place to wake up. But with time ticking and the sun rising, the race was on for us to climb up to Hartz Pass in the hope we would be there for the golden hour.
After a short climb to the pass we were blown away as we watched the sun slowly begin to crest the horizon casting long shadows. Wherever the light touched was transformed
The Southwest at sunrise
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into a rosy hue. We made it for the golden hour, and it was warming our souls.
With the surrounding mountains and valleys being set aglow, it felt as though time stood still while we soaked in the first moments of this new day. One filled with happiness, adventure and hope.
It had been just over a year since we stood atop Hartz, back when we did the Mount Snowy and Hartz Peak circuit, so there was an air of excitement for us both to visit our old dolerite friend. While the incline and the rock hopping were a bit challenging, our knees didn't mind it too much.
With not a breath of wind, Hartz Lake below looked like glass, and the reflections were just magical. As we pushed on and summited it was a euphoric feeling. We were the first to enjoy that view for the day. The gateway of new adventures to begin again. A mountain top I had longed to be on once again and the chance to just sit and be in the moment.
After a blissful two hours sitting on the summit enjoying our surroundings and giving the Canon a workout we decided that with the day set for 30 degree temperatures, the idea of descending, having to pack up and walk out in the middle of a summers' day heat wasn't ideal. So after cooking up some breakfast and a few deep sighs of happiness, we got our feet moving to make our way down. As we descended we passed a couple of blokes who had spent the night near Hartz Lake.
We all had a chuckle discussing just how much of a scrub bash it is getting to the lake, especially with full packs. It would have made for a huge effort in yesterday's heat! Despite that, they seemed to have had a good time, and that's all that mattered.
Finally, we were down at Ladies Tarn, and at 10 am, we were already sweating bullets. So off the clothes came and in we got for an amazingly refreshing dip in the crystal clear waters. Swimming with the Anaspides
A breathtaking way to begin the year.
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(Anaspides tasmaniae), tiny little mountain shrimps that survive in many a frozen tarn in Tasmanian alpine areas.
What an extraordinary sight it was. Being at eye level with the tarn looking up to the craggy peaks towering above, and being surrounded by a plethora of Pandani trees (Richea pandanifolia), the worlds tallest heath plant found only in the alpine areas of Tasmania. With their distinct shape with long serrated leaves, you will be left feeling like you are surrounded by beings from another planet.
Returning to the car we were both thankful for the delightful weekend we had just experienced. It was great to know we would be home before long looking back on the memories of this wondrous island we call home.
As always with our deep love of the outdoors comes deep respect and the importance of keeping our wild places pure and as we found them. Following the leave no trace principles is incredibly important. And please, if you wish to visit our beautiful national parks, give them the respect they deserve and they will share their beauty with you.
Phoebe moved from South Australia to Tasmania in 2003 and soon learnt to appreciate the raw beauty that Tassie has on offer. Phoebe works for a Huon Valley real estate office and is forever looking forward to time out of the office and planning new adventures. Her father was a tour guide, and his love of the outdoors is now with her. Over time, day walks morphed into extended trips, which she loves. With a husband and father just as keen for the outdoors, a love for researching her adventures and an abundance of Tasmanian places to explore, life is interesting, with challenges and excitement.
Richea Pandanifolia
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Jason, Phoebe and Mat at the Walls of Jerusalem
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