This year’s pilgrimage would be very different in the current situation of COVID-19. There would be no sitting around the fire in the hut exchanging stories as much as previous years due to social distancing, and the size of the huts. However, I have my mask ready to use and lots of alcohol wipes to clean any surface required.

Last year we did not make it to Cesjacks Hut due to Joe’s car getting bogged so let’s see how far we make it this year. This year, Steve and I drove down and spent the night in Jindabyne while Joe and Bruce were staying in Cooma. We are planning to meet up with Joe and Bruce somewhere on the Nimmo Road, Snowy Plains Fire Trail, en-route to the locked gate near Cesjacks Hut.

Rock FaceSonya Muhlsimmer

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Common Brown

Day 1 – Jindabyne to Cesjacks HutIt is 18 July, 7 am and minus 4 degrees Celsius in Jindabyne, time to get up. We had breakfast, loaded the car, stopped off in Jindabyne for a coffee and to pick up a last minute repair kit for the new sled I have, and Steve and I are ready to go. My car is loaded with snow chains, a shovel, a snatch strap, tarps in case I need it for the river crossing and recovery boards if we were to get bogged. Nothing can stop us this time.

The Gungarlin river crossing was over a very small and narrow bridge, which was easy, nothing to worry about here, so far so good. The snow around this point was not so deep and very patchy with lots of mud around, and onwards we go. I have not even put the car in 4WD yet. The further in we go the thicker the snow became. As I was driving Steve was opening and closing the many gates and filming all the scary stuff.

The second river crossing is through the water this time. We got out of the car, assessed the river and it looked fine, so I put the car in 4WD and on we go. As long as I don’t slow down driving through the water I should be right, right? In contrast to the last ford crossing, the third river crossing was a bit different, wider and a fair bit deeper. This is the crossing I was a bit concerned about. We got out of the car again, assessed it and we thought we would

be right. I have heard some scary stories about this crossing, and I don’t want to make my own story about getting stuck. On the river bank on a patch of snow, and on the dirt track right in front of us, there was a sign from Joe and Bruce. If Bruce can cross this river in his all wheel drive, I will be fine. I have a little more clearance and a four wheel drive so no problem for me, on we go again. Within a few kilometres we finally catch up with them. They are at an unlocked gate, just before a rather big, steep, slippery looking hill, well it looked steep especially if we have to ski from here, about six kilometres from Cesjacks Hut. We decided to put the chains on and drive up the hill as far as we can to the locked gate at the Kosciuszko National Park boundary. Well, another kilometre was driven and that was it, around 1570 metres, but at least we are closer to Cesjacks Hut, here we come. Cesjacks Hut was about five kilometres away now and we don’t have to lug up that first part of the hill, but it felt like the hill kept going up and up.

Once Cesjacks was reached, water was collected, the tents went up and comfortable night time clothes were put on. Steve and Bruce went into the hut and met the other people there; Joe and I poked our head in to the hut, but that was it. Dinner watching the sun set was on our agenda for the night, and then it was early to bed.

The Gungarlin River crossing on the Snowy Plains Fire TrailSonya Muhlsimmer

A sign from Joe Bob before the second ford crossingSteven Buchert

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GR 272942, campSonya Muhlsimmer

Day 2 – Cesjacks Hut to campWe woke to a beautiful sunny day and our plan is to go to Mawsons Hut. After breakfast, it was time to pack up and go. It was a pretty easy going day today meandering our way along the snow taking it somewhat easy. It was so nice to be out on the snow again. Sometime in the afternoon I was wondering where we actually were, surely we should be near Mawsons Hut soon. From Cesjacks to Mawsons it is around about nine kilometres, we surely have done that by now. I pull out my GPS to get a reading, GR 272942, near the Geehi River. It is still another four kilometres to the hut and it will be dark within an hour, so we decided to camp where we are. The tents were up and we were set for the night. Well, the weather turned for the worst, the worst night I have ever had. I thought last year at Schlink Hilton in a blizzard with about 25 people and six rats running rampant was bad, but that was nothing compared to this night. I got snow drift in my tent; in fact everyone got snow drift in their tent. During the night I kept checking the time to see how long day break would be so we can get out of this blizzard. I wanted to scream, I could have screamed and no-one would have heard me through the wind and flapping of my tent. It was midnight, then 2 am, 3 am and so on. This night was never going to end. Steve wrote

about his experience in his log book and allowed me to share his experience, below. I thought it was only me experiencing the worst night ever, but in fact we all had a bad night.

Last night was a scream – literally. The wind picked up just after we set up the tents in the lee of a rocky outcrop and the wind turned from the west side onto the tents. I did not sleep until 3 am from holding the wall of the fly and tent from collapsing. Sleeping bag was wet and there was nothing to do but to persevere. I thought that it was I only affected but all Bobs had the cave-in tent syndrome. Finally breakfast, packed the wet bag and ice-filled tent and off at 8:00 towards Mawsons.

Snow drift in my tentSonya Muhlsimmer

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Day 3 – Camp to Mawsons HutWhat a night, so glad that it's over and we all survived and no-one’s tent flew away during the blizzard. Now to pack up and get out of here, only four kilometres away is a nice dry hut waiting our arrival. I secretly hoped that no-one is there tonight so we can spread our gear out to get it dry. After a few hours and off in the distance, there it is, I can see it, Mawsons Hut was in our sight, finally. It was under a kilometre away, what a relief it was to see it. However, there was one last obstacle for the day, the crossing of Valentine Creek. There is enough snow to ski, however the base is not that thick as you can see the ground around the trunk of some trees. There is not enough snow for snow bridges over a lot of creeks. We skied for a fair while to try to find a snow bridge, no luck, but we had to find somewhere to cross. Near the poles around the creek the water was not that deep so off come the skis, and we walk across in the water. My feet got pretty wet but at least we can dry the boots out in front of the fire in the hut, along with our wet sleeping bags and tents. Once we got into the hut, we decided that the night calls for sleeping in the hut tonight. No-one else is around and it will allow us to get all our gear dry as everything was wet. The fire was lit, ski gear came off, night clothes were on, a cup of tea and lunch was made and all the wet tents and sleeping bags were hung up to dry.

Day 4 – Mawsons HutToday Bruce decided to have a rest day while Steve, Joe and I go out exploring. It took a while to get going but there was no rush. It was decided to stay another night at Mawsons and besides, my tent is still wet. Off we venture south along Valentine Creek towards the other big bend near Brassy Peak to see if we can find a suitable river crossing further upstream so we don’t have to get our feet wet again. If we were to camp out again and have wet boots, it will not be a pleasant experience. There must be a better crossing somewhere up the creek. There was definitely nowhere to cross downstream as we skied a fair distance looking for a place to cross en-route to Mawsons, so hopefully there will be something upstream.

It was a picture perfect day today, the sun was out and there were no clouds in the sky, just beautiful. We took our time going up the creek stopping many times to take in the view, and a long stop for a leisurely lunch. We saw lots of animal foot prints, and there was even evidence of an animal sliding down the bank to get some water. Hope it didn’t fall in. Then there was Rock Face. It was a huge mound of granite that in three different angles it had three distinct and different faces. We stood there looking at it for some time. The day was getting on and it was time to go back to the hut; unfortunately there were no snow bridges along the way to cross. Plan B will have to be initiated for the creek crossing now, but what is Plan B? Discussions will be had looking at the map, over a glass of wine next to the fire tonight.

Cesjacks HutSonya Muhlsimmer

Discussing Plan B, where to cross the creek next Steven Buchert

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Day 5 – Mawsons Hut to Cesjacks hutAnother picture perfect day and it was back to Cesjacks. The first hurdle was the Valentine Creek crossing around where we crossed it before, right near the poles. Bruce called my rucksack the Tardis, as I kept pulling things out of it. Luckily for us the Tardis was armed with a few garbage bags so some of us could tape bags around our feet. Joe had his own bags so there were enough to go around, surely this will work. If there is one thing I hate, it is wet feet. Okay ready, on the count of three. One, two, three and off I go running as quickly as I can through the water. Yes, it worked. Glad I packed those garbage bags.

Lunch and the rest spot were picked just up near North Bulls Peak, then over towards Smiths Perisher way. An old fence line was reached and a helicopter could be heard so this was a good time to stop and see what the commotion was about. Lo and behold and about a kilometre away the chopper landed on the snow. It was a rescue, gee I

hope the person will be alright. Luckily, it's not that often that you see a rescue take place. On we go towards McAlister Saddle. The snow is really quite patchy down in the saddle, so the plan is to stay high and follow the contour line heading north-east towards Cesjacks. In a few more hours Cesjacks Hut was reached.

Day 6 – Cesjacks hut to homeInstead of the eight days that were planned, it was decided to leave today. To be honest I was not that happy about this decision as this was my annual trip to the snow. I don’t know if I can get down again this season so I wanted to stay. But the rule is that we stay together, especially considering we have a hard drive out and who knows what the ford crossings would be like. With not much snow during the week and every day being relatively warm, a lot of snow would have melted making the crossings a little bit more precarious.

After breakfast, camp was packed and down the hill we went and before you know it we were back at the cars. There certainly was more water in the ford crossings. The water went over the bonnet, and half way back home to Sydney at a rest stop on the highway, I noticed that a number plate was missing. I must have lost it in the water. First job back home I needed to do then is to get new plates. This year’s trip certainly felt different. There was not a huge amount of snow, only six days out and no mingling in the huts meeting new friends. Well, at least I got to go to the snow and I am not in total lockdown. Till next year.

Above Valentine Creek with Jagungal on the skylineSonya Muhlsimmer

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