In December 2019 I found an old trip report. In light of the bushfire devastation I want to share this bit of my history as a way of paying homage to the area that is now recovering. An amazing time, an awesome walk and a most valuable national park. Much has changed in the last 35 years, notably the use of campfires and group size. The terrain is still challenging. The trip started and finished at Wog Wog.

Dawn over Pigeon House from Cooyoyo CreekAll pictures by Stephen Lake

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The Castle, Byangee Walls and Pigeon House

Time for my annual yearly resumé (printers please include the accent) cum PM (postmortem) cum re the Bushies Christmas jaunt where did we go? The place was the Budawangs. Where? Near Batemans Bay, twixt the ACT and the sea, a series of high plateaus, cliffs, and deep river valleys. Even before we started there were two casualties: Kerrie and Margaret, come on a walk soon, and go easy on training trips.

The startThe Southern Aurora chugged us to Goulburn. This was at some expense, but better than a headline “Bushwalker injured in four car pile-up at Yass.” Don't they drive on the right in NSW? Breakfast at 6.15 am. Who invented early? Then the coach to the walk area. With 13 of us and a 49 seater coach there was a lot of room. Put the frisbee away - not that much room.

So, at 10 am, with the leader dragged screaming from the bus “l'm too young to go, and I thought that this was Arapiles” the circus attempted to set off. “Who put rocks in

my pack, I can't lift it?” “You're standing on the waist belt.” “Thanks.” “Did you say food for ten days or two?” “Where are the sherpas or burros?” Miscreants!

Rage across the plains, looking for action, to the foothills. Up a little to the rim. “Wow,” they chorused dutifully, mindful of the rock in the leader's hand. Fantastic views, nearly 360°, with a 50 metre cliff below. Click, click. “Mrs Dewhurst, we were seeing who could lean out over the cliff furthest, and your Neil won.” Oops. At least 12 people in the party is luckier than 13. Neil is biodegradable.

Trundle on to the Corang Arch, walk right out on top, hope that it doesn't become the Corang Pillars. Down from the bluffs, check out some caves. On a bit to Bibbenluke, with more panoramas of rocks and trees. The weather looks not good. Surge onto a cave; too small. This way to camp. Bash, scrape, smash, crash in thick, prickly, sharp most unfriendly scrub. Just before the camp, a track. “Well, it was different,” I said, justifying my path and checking escape routes. “Yes, we want a different leader.” Ho, hum.

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Rest day at Red Johnnys Cave

Tarn, Hidden Valley, Quiltys Clearing, Red Johnnys CaveNext day dawned. (Bright and sunny are two fictitious words in my trip advertising.) Up to Mount Tarn, then over the top. Photography is useful for a slow pace. Rest. I put my pack under an overhang, but the drizzle results in the group crowding me out, so it's time to move. Around Houghton, slow on the wet rocks. Miss the ridge down - navigation delays - but I know where I am going, even if I do lose over half the herd. Kangaroos bounce close by. Onto Hidden Valley. Most turn back at the near-vertical descent: I press on with a few stalwarts with no fear of heights and small brains. We find the easy way in; room enough for the Light Brigade to charge. To Quiltys Clearing and more drizzle, which eases off so we can put up the tents, light a fire, cook dinner then rain, rain and more rain. We had a massive drownpour, overnight, more rain than I can recall. There were two centimetres of water under the tent, all tents leaked, and the tide rose. So after this less than satisfactory night we retreated in order to be dry. (Read that both ways!) Red Johnnys Cave was only 30 rninutes away, and was very un-wet. A rest day.

Descending Folly Point, very wet

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Folly to CooyoyoAs the sun moved high above the clouds the next day, we received the contents of the aforesaid clouds. They dumped, solid rain to Folly Point. Down Folly Point and Watson Pass - a form of underwater-bushwalking suicide. Wet steep rocks, lowering of packs and nearly people with ropes, small waterfalls to descend, lots of water. Down to the cave and lunch at 2.15 pm; it was too cold, wet and exposed to stop before this. Dry out slowly.

After a restful dry night, we set off again, but the track died and it took us an hour to walk a kilometre. Fortunately, the pace improved, and we sailed down to Hollands Creek. Fight the killer leeches, and quickly move up to Darri Pass. Find a flat spot at 12.15 pm. “Lunch here?” I asked hopefully. “No, let's go to the top of the pass.” Foolishly I listened. We pushed on. And on. The track petered out, the scrub came down, and there was unhappiness. I felt like Moses leading the lost tribes to the promised land. “Promise you won't lead us back here?” They waved money before my bleary eyes: a DM, an Indian Rupee, a Dutch Guilder! Lunch arrived at about 2 pm on the top of the pass. Then

a little scrub, then a lot of scrub, then rain, and finally leeches. The photocopy maps are dissolving. This may even be interesting. At 5 pm we arrived at a fair to good campsite, even if it's somewhat exposed. This viable campsite is one of only four in the last two days, which were the mentally toughest I can remember.

Nibbelung, The Castle and New Years EveNext day: sun! I had a dictionary, and looked it up. Concern was expressed at the lack of rain. Disregarding the unexpected change of weather, we climbed Mount Nibbelung, and a few pushed on up The Castle. Most

Dana and Colin on the exposed part of The Castle climb

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were content to just rest. New Year's Eve was officially postponed due to bad light and cold winds. On 1 January, up The Castle again with the masses who missed out last year. A challenge on dry warm rock with ropes and encouragement. Some people really pushed their limits on this one, and the reward was greater. The others buzzed up Shrouded Gods Mountain. At 10 pm we celebrated New Year's Eve, Eastern Standard (Budawangs) Summer Time. More balloons and cheesecakes. I made a diary note “Trip enters second year.”

Mount Cole, Corang River and the roadDawn. One tent heeled over in the wind, hang gliding for walkers. Over to Monolith Valley, the caves, massive rock walls, the arches and grottos. Climb up to Seven Gods in a deep rift, Laze in the sun, then on to camp in a cave under the west flank of Mount Cole. While about half the group rested, some climbed Mount Cole, returning via the abyss near Mount Owen. Wander back to camp with a shower au natural in a convenient waterfall. I know, only dirty people wash, but ...

Dive into the morning with more scrub (miss the track), then coast along to the lookout. Puff, pant. Roll down the track, then scrub. Lunch on the Corang River, sun, a swim. On to camp, a crippling 40 minutes after lunch. Hard! Another swim, more sun, and Earl Grey Tea. Relax. Last camp.

Off into the clear morning light, with only the odd patch of heavy scrub. The hoped for track is a non-starter. Lunch for two hours, with a swim, near the pickup point. Move to the road, 200 metres, take a few pics, and the bus arrives. Perfect timing.

The wrapI enjoy planning and leading long trips. The anticipation, the problems, meeting new people, doing the best in varying circumstances, making the right and wrong decisions, learning from the wrong decisions, the intense personal happiness in organising a good time, the extended isolation.

The Budawangs was not the Walls of Jerusalem a year ago - quite a different trip. Rain, rock, leeches and scrub took the edge off the enjoyment for four days. But when the weather cleared, we were in a perfect spot to rest, dry out and climb our main objectives

The tail of The Castle, with our camp just visible on the right.

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This waterfall appeared after rain. From near the Folly Point cave.